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Laying floor tiles is a job for a professional tiler or a very competent DIY fanatic because it usually requires special tools and a specific amount of skill to get it looking perfect. Laying a square or rectangular formed tile could appear comparatively straightforward however the difficulties come up when tiles need to be cut (as they always do) and shaped around obstacles within the room. Cutting hard tiles resembling porcelain floor tiles or some types of natural stone is a job that only professional equipment can do properly. It's doable to hire the best equipment however that may be expensive and there may be still a risk of ruining expensive porcelain tiles with a bad cut.  
  
In case you are assured enough to put in your floor tiles yourself, or whether or not you have employed a professional tiler, an important thing to do first is put together the surface onto which the tiles will be laid.  
  
If the prevailing floor is concrete then the job will be quite straightforward - the mortar will be applied directly to the floor and the tiles laid on top.  
  
If the existing floor is wooden then the solution is less simple - cement backer units (CBU) used with a moisture-proof membrane are a sensible choice for a wall tile substrate in wet areas and are sometimes also used so as to strengthen a floor and provide a moisture barrier between the tiling and underlying wood. However cement backer units will not totally stop bending of a wooden floor under the weight of very heavy floor tiles. For very heavy tiles being installed over a wooden floor a plywood substrate will be needed.  
  
Once the substrate is prepared the world should be measured and the structure on your tile dimension deliberate and marked out. A cement based mostly adhesive (thinset mortar) is then utilized in sections to the substrate with a trowel and each floor tile laid on top using the marked guidelines and plastic tile spacers to take care of even gaps between the tiles for the grout. The advantage of a thinset mortar is that it does not dry too quickly so you possibly can shift the tiles slightly to get the right layout.  
  
As each section of floor tiles is laid the level should be checked with a big spirit level because floors are rarely totally flat. Extra mortar can be utilized to even out areas where there's a slight distinction in level.  
  
For hard tiles akin to porcelain tiles a wet noticed with a diamond blade is used to chop them around fixed obstacles resembling sanitary ware, pipes and doorways.  
  
As soon as all of the tiles have been laid depart the mortar to dry totally earlier than starting to fill the gaps between them with grout. There are three completely different types of grout available:  
  
Unsanded - for grout joints less than 3mm wide  
Sanded - for grout joints with a width of 3mm or more  
Epoxy - a waterproof and stain resistant grout for any width of grout joint  
Selecting the best type of grout for porcelain floor tiles will give a professional end however will also reduce the amount of maintenance required, and if it is properly sealed it will final for as long as the porcelain tiles themselves.  
  
Avoid walking on the floor until the grout has completely dried - this can take as much as 2 days relying on the thickness of your tiles and on the width of the grout joints.  
  
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